In 1872, following the Meiji Restoration, the site, along with a number of other castles, was sold for redevelopment, but news that it was about to be demolished caused local residents to start a campaign to save the building, and it was acquired by the city government. It had been used as an aircraft factory during World War Two but managed to avoid being damaged by American bombers.
If it hadn’t done so you’d probably be looking at a ferroconcrete replica.
Your tour of the interior reinforces the idea that seventeenth century samurai weren’t exactly big blokes. There are a couple of suits of armour on display to make that point, but as you make your way up and down the steep wooden stairs it’s equally obvious that the conditions inside when the castle was under attack suited short agile types.
You’ll also pass openings that could be used by archers and musket bearers, along with others used to drop stones onto those trying to make their way into the building on your way to the sixth floor observation deck which gives extensive views over the city.
I didn’t make it all the way up there, given the size of the backpack and the single narrow staircase that was supposed to handle traffic in both directions, but the view from the fifth floor wasn’t too bad. The whole thing would probably be at its best in spring and autumn since there are hundreds of cherry trees in the grounds, but in prime sakura season it would certainly draw massive crowds.
It’s not recommended for people with dodgy knees either.
Once Madam had made her way back down from the top floor we headed back towards the exit, taking in the views back across the courtyard, and once we were back around ground level there were still two hours before the bus to the hotel.
Making our way around the grounds we ran across a samurai in full regalia, three to provide photo opportunities. Given the wearer’s height one had to suspect the regalia was modern replica rather than genuine seventeenth-century relic.
With time up our sleeves, we made a quick visit to the city museum, which wasn't that impressive but provided a couple of familiar items in the twentieth century section which were enough to make us feel, well, old.