There are times when you pick up a vibe about a place, and Fermoy was one such occasion. Madam dropped me at the Cellar Door, and turned the chariot back along Metricup Road, where she'd noted the presence of a chocolate factory.
Inside, I found a very friendly but rather new to the establishment attendant who I hope they have the sense to hold on to. As indicated, she hadn't been there long, readily admitted to things she wasn't sure of, and still did an excellent job of guiding the interested taster through the range. Professionally, I'd put her on a par with the Cellar Door people at Houghton, Lenton Brae and Stella Bella.
I started with the 2008 Estate Semillon (4.5/5 $22) a nicely lemony little number with great mouthfeel, and while I wasn't as taken with the 2009 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (4/5 $20) picking up the regulation regional nose, it was still an impressive style with a long finish. The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (4/5 $22) was impressive as well, and prompted the usual remarks and shaking of the head over the Kiwi Savalanche. Yes, I know they do it well over there, but there are a number of Australian operations that produce something that's right in the same ball park.
The Chardonnays were impressive as well, with the 2007 Estate Chardonnay (4.5/5 $22) an understated refined style I really liked and the 2009 Geographe Chardonnay (4/5 $16) as an impressive summery unwooded quaffer that could well be a reorder candidate. We shall see. At $72/case there was no delay in ordering a box of the 2008 Naturaliste Shiraz, (4/5 but outstanding value for money in a lighter style). Thank heaven for cancelled export orders.
The 2009 Geographe Shiraz (4/5 $16) was another one in the lighter mode, which I thought was value for money, and the third Shiraz, the 2008 Fermoy (4.5/5 $22) was a rounded fresh style that ran over the palate very nicely indeed. Another one to remember, as was the 2007 Nebbiolo (4.5/5 $30) a classy balancing act in the lighter style with varietal style and savoury tannins. The 2008 Merlot (5/5 $30) was very much the way Merlot should be but often isn't, while the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (4/5 $20) was, I thought, a bit young but had things in place to improve with age. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (4/5 $30) was also, I thought, on the young side, and I note Mr Halliday rated it a 94 with a drink to 2023. One to give some time if I can generate some space in the wine fridge.
I also tried the 2010 Verdelho, and a Rose, both of which were too sweet for mine and are conspicuous by their absence from both website and printed price list.
While it'd be going a bit too far to suggest that Hughesy was determined to like what he found at Cullen Wines, it's also safe to say I'd been, careful to eliminate any risk factors. I'd taken my time at Fermoy, and was at peace with the world when we rolled into the car park at Cullen Wines.