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From the daily specials I ordered half a dozen Coffin Bay oysters (hence the decision to go with a glass of the Riesling) and both of us went for the pasta with a creamy prawn and pea sauce which, quite frankly, couldn’t possibly be faulted.

Back on the road, we headed to Kilikanoon, where I was struck by the clear contrast between the 2008 ‘Mort’s Block’ Riesling ($21) another wonderful expression of one of my all-time favourite wine styles and the 2008 ‘Mort’s Reserve’ Riesling ($30) taken from selected rows from the same vineyard. The difference was absolutely noticeable. I’d be absolutely happy to drink the former in any appropriate circumstance while the latter is absolutely stunning.

The 2007 Barrel Fermented Semillon ($18) had picked up some buttery characteristics along the way, which was fine with me, while the 2007 Second Fiddle Rose ($18) was a full-bodied, balanced, medium style and another excellent summer wine, as was the 2006 Prodigal Grenache, another one in the contemporary softer style.

The 2005 Medley Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre was the sort of Mediterranean style that’d be the perfect match for Italian meat or pasta dishes and is the sort of wine that creeps up on you. Maybe it should carry a label advising caution when approaching the bottle.

The 2006 Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon ($29) wasn’t quite my cup of tea, though when she tried a sip Madam disagreed, and the 2005 Covenant Shiraz ($38) had a lovely long finish thought took quite a bit of swirling in the glass to bring it out.

Small wineries don’t come much more interesting than Olssens of Watervale, located at the end of a dirt track that might encourage the less fanatical among us to turn back. My iPod note reads unusual varieties such as carmenere and primitivo di Gioia so turning back wasn’t going to be an option unless the road started degenerating into impassability.

And even if it had, I think I might have been tempted to get out and walk.

Once again this was a no notes taken episode and while I liked the whole range, for me the standouts were the ones I came for, the 2006 BHV Primitivo ($35), the 2006 BHV Carmenere ($35), the 2005 BHV MMS ($25) and, finally, the 2005 The Olssen Six, featuring all six of the classic Bordeaux varieties, something that doesn’t even happen in Bordeaux any more. We had the time and it was on the way home, so we stopped into Crabtree Watervale Wines (as much for the view across the village of Watervale as for the tasting opportunity but I couldn’t help myself and wandered into the Cellar Door while Madam took a few photos.

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© Ian Hughes 2012