As one of the pioneers of Margaret River winemaking the place has plenty of historical significance, but that's not going to count for much if the wine isn't up to scratch. I was particularly keen on the place given the fact that they've moved from standard viticulture to organic growing and have subsequently gained biodynamic certification and was the first winery in Australia certified as carbon neutral.
The sight of bikes displaying a variety of flags in the courtyard was followed by a sighting of a French couple inside, and there was evidently some degree of disagreement on the subject of cork closures versus the screw cap. While you try not to tune into neighbouring conversations, there are times when the temptation becomes too great.
Given the care that has obviously gone into the winemaking side of things and the strength of the Cullen campaign against the development of a brewery next door (the yeasts used to brew beer aren’t suited to wine), I would have thought that the decision to go for the screw cap spoke for itself, but there are some people who evidently can’t be convinced.
I was expecting to be impressed and from the starting 2010 Margaret River White (4.5/5 $19) a variation on the traditional Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with a splash of Chardonnay I wasn’t disappointed. It's an interesting blend for short term with depth on the palate that's remarkable in a wine that registers 12% alc/vol.
The 2008 Mangan Vineyard Semillon (4.5/5 $19), a slightly oaked style came across quite powerfully on the nose and the depth of flavour on the palate matched the bouquet. My notes for the next two, the 2009 Mangan Vineyard Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and the 2009 Cullen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (both 5/5 $35) read, respectively Forget the rest. $35 and worth every cent and Hard to say which to prefer. Solution? Buy both. Minerality, citrus notes, and absolutely fantastic.
Then there was the 2008 Kevin John Chardonnay (5/5 $75) which started off rather restrained on the nose and then opened out magnificently. Iconic, with a significant Wow factor. It came as no surprise to learn that it picked up the World's Best Chardonnay gong at the recent Decanter awards. Somehow I suspect the order will be going in too late to pick any up, but at least I've tried it.
Moving on to the reds the 2008 Margaret River Red (4.5/5 $24) was a lovely softer style, eminently drinkable at just 12% while the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (4.5/5 $39) was another softer rounded style, the perfect antidote to Cab Merlot satiety. I'd been going off the blend, but the soft tannins and depth of flavour here brought me right back into the fold. There's a smidgeon of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc in there as well.