2006 Polish Hill River Riesling

Friday, 18 September 2009


On a jaunt around beautiful downtown Bowen I needed to pop into the supermarket to buy some cheese. That involved walking past the liquor barn, which provided an excuse to duck inside for a gander at what was on special. There, right before my beady eyes was what looked like the remaining stock of Paulett 2006 Polish Hill River Riesling marked down to $13/bottle, provided you were buying at least two.

Before I’m accused of acting on impulse, I should point out that I proceeded to mull over the various possibilities as I made my way around the aisles of the supermarket. The way home took me back past the liquor barn, so, having mapped out a rough strategy, I popped back in, prompting an inquiry as to whether I was needed assistance.

These bottles here, I pointed out, are $26 for two. That’s thirteen dollars each, isn’t it?

Yes, came the reply. But Only if you’re buying two.

Fine, I responded. How many bottles have you got?

The question prompted some interest from a couple who happened to be browsing the same wine rack. 

Hmmm, the gentleman of the outfit mused as he inspected the bottle on the top, Clare Riesling. Interesting...

At this point, with the attendant checking out the stock situation at the back of the premises, territoriality came into play. 

Steady on, I pointed out, I saw it first.

When the attendant returned with the news that the seven bottles in the rack represented their entire stock and that they wouldn’t be getting any more in because it didn’t sell very well.

Fine, I replied I’ll take the lot. Be back as soon as I can make my way home and get a lift back

So, within the half hour, back I was. 

A quick scan of the rest of the racks revealed that they were in the process of clearing out a lot of stock, and we could probably have picked up a number of bargains. In the end I opted for a single bottle of Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Red, substantially reduced from $25.99 and headed back to the till to conclude negotiations.

Madam, in need of the credit card points, was in the process of paying, when the attendant appeared at my shoulder, brandishing a further bottle. 

This was in the fridge, she reported. Would you like it as well?

Needless to say, when we had made it back to base, that bottle found its way into the fridge and was opened in the lead up to the evening meal.

So what’s it like, this wine that didn’t sell very well?

In a word, sublime.

Actually, given the flavour components you find in the best Clare Riesling, that’s possibly an understatement. We need an addition to the vocabulary to denote a surfeit of lime character in a wine. How about suplime (as in the running together of superb and lime?)

Once the screwcap had been twisted off I took a whiff. Clean, fresh savoury floral lime elements. Poured some and took another sniff, and there it was again. As with all the best Clare Rieslings it’s the sort of aroma that could easily prompt you to park the hooter in the top of the glass for an extended period of blissful sniffing.

Looking through the glass, as usual the wine’s almost totally clear, a slight green-gold edge to it and once it hits the taste buds there’s that stony steely slate that, again, you find in the best examples of the style. There’s a beautiful balanced intensity to the wine, generous flavour and it’s a style that should, according according to the estimable Mr Halliday (who coincidentally rates it a 93) handle cellaring till around 2016 if you have the right conditions to do so.

The wine fridge is full, and there’re plenty of high rated Rieslings in there. Somehow, I doubt there’ll be much left by Christmas.

© Ian Hughes 2012