More...


During the Little Ice Age the climate in Bordeaux did not guarantee successful harvests every year and producers insured themselves by planting a variety of grapes. Over time they found the characteristics of each variety complemented others and blending enhanced the quality of wine. Cabernet Sauvignon added structure, acidity, tannin and aging potential, but can lack fleshiness on the palate which can be overcome by adding MerlotCabernet Franc can add to the bouquet and contribute a degree of fruitiness. In the lighter soils of Margaux, Cabernet-based wines can lack colour, which can be achieved by blending in Petit VerdotMalbec can add additional fruit and floral aromas.

The variety was introduced to Piedmont in 1820, where the grape was used in blends with Nebbiolo and Barbera to add colour and fruit flavours. All three varieties are subjected to oak treatment to add a sweet spiciness to compensate for high tannins in Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo and high acidity in Barbera. According to DOC regulations Chianti could contain no more than 70% Sangiovese with at least 10% of a white grape. Many producers thought they would produce better wine using Cabernet Sauvignon rather than white grape varieties. Other Tuscan regions followed, blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese and making varietal versions of the grape. 

Cabernet probably arrived in Australia in 1832 in the collection of James Busby, but it may have been brought with the First Fleet, and is mentioned by Sir William Macarthur in his description of varieties recommended for cultivation in Australia. It was introduced into South Australia by Joseph Gilbert in the 1840s for plantings at Pewsey Vale. 

In the Coonawarra, Cabernet Sauvignon has produced vastly different results from vines planted in the region's free-draining terra rossa soil, producing deeply coloured, firmly structured wines with ageing potential, to the extent that the red soil is considered the boundary of the region. The long, cool growing season allowed for the accumulation of intense berry flavours, with an undercurrent of regional eucalypt character. 

Margaret River, with a climate similar to Bordeaux, produces balanced wines with fresh berry fruit and fine tannins, the Barossa Valley produces big, full bodied wines while the cooler Clare Valley produces wines with more concentrated fruit.

The wine's high tannin content, oak influences and alcohol levels tend to overwhelm light and delicate dishes. Cabernet Sauvignon does not work well with spicy foods since capsaicin in chilli peppers are enhanced by alcohol, accentuating the bitterness. Milder spices, such as black pepper, pair better because the minimise the perception of tannins—so pepper steak is a better match than Sichuan style beef.

Fats and proteins also reduce the perception of tannins on the palate, so fatty red meats, such as lamb, work well, as do dishes with a cream sauce. In contrast, pastas and rice have little effect on tannins. The bitterness of the tannins can be counterbalanced with bitter foods, such as radicchio and endive, or cooking methods that involve charring. As the wine ages subtle, less bitter dishes will pair better. Oak influences of the wine can be matched with cooking methods such as grilling, smoking and plank roasting. 


© Ian Hughes 2012