December/January/February 2011

Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (4.5* $25) Arrived as part of 1870s Club shipment, and presumably a cellar door only, since it doesn't appear on the website. Surprisingly soft (I was expecting something substantially bigger) fruit-driven style with smoothly rounded tannins and a very moreish mouth-feel. May not be one for the long haul, but could well be part of a reorder after I've tried the other three reds in the pack.

Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Liqueur Muscat NV (4.5* $25/ $21.25 1870s Club) While it's impossible to be entirely accurate where memory is concerned, the varietal intensity through the nose and across the palate takes me right back to the old HJT Liqueur Muscat, my own long term benchmark for the style. Full-flavoured with a lusciouusness across the palate that will keep the I'm getting a bit of crowd busy, Obtaining a regular supply was the main reason for joining the 1870s Club, and i want a bottle of this as a permanent fixture on top of the wine rack, at least until I can afford the Winemakers Selection Rare Old Muscat ($75/ $53,75 1870s Club for 375ml on a regular basis.

Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Rutherglen Durif (4.5* $25/ $21.25 1870s Club) The conventional wisdom suggests that those who prefer subtle, understated reds should be giving Durif, with high alcohol levels and big flavours to match, the big flick pass, I found this remarkably smooth and understated. There's still plenty of rich full-bodied fruit flavour there, but it's nicely balanced and went down a treat. Better cellaring conditions and/or a genuine winter could well prompt a reorder, though it works very well as a short term drinking style. 

Bloodwood 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (4.5* $25) Elegant style that balances savoury notes, berry fruits and fine tannins to deliver a lengthy finish. Definite reorder material.

Brook Eden 2009 Pinot Noir (4.5* $?) Impressive medium-bodied style that continues the process of converting a Pinot-sceptic. Supple palate with cherry and berry overtones and soft tannins. Will need to be quick if looking to order as it won't be released until some time in 2011 and they only made 1900 bottles. Still, could definitely be tempted!

Brook Eden 2010 Pinot Rose (4* 15.5 points $22.50) Lighter colour than some we've tried recently, with more than a touch of strawberries and cream on the palate. Not as well balanced as it might be, but still pleasant summer drinking. Reorder will depend on what else is going into the box and how much space is left.

Brook Eden 2010 Riesling (4.5* 18.5 points $22.50) Pale straw, almost transparent in the glass, with generous notes on the nose and a crisp finish once the lime characters have passed over the palate. Very tasty lunchtime style that's definite reorder material with the Pinot Gris and the Pinot Rose and the rest of the bottle will probably go down well with tonight's Thai style curry.

Brown Brothers 2004 Shiraz Mondeuse & Cabernet (4.5* $40) Deep full-bodied red, complex notes on the nose, focussed, smooth and balanced across the palate with everything playing nicely together. At just over 50% Shiraz, with the other two sharing the rest close to evenly you can taste what the Mondeuse brings to this rather wonderful blend. I would love to have the wherewithal to try one of these at fifteen, twenty or twenty-five years.

Hay Shed Hill 2009 Block 1 Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (4.5* $28) 65% Semillon 35% Sauvignon Blanc Free run juice from old dry grown vines fermented in old French oak has produced a pale straw style that's remarkably understated, brimming with subtle flavour and quite sublime summer drinking. 

Hay Shed Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (4* $25) Dark red in the glass with varietal notes on the nose and across the palate, this one, which turned up unannounced and uninvited just prior to Christmas was pleasant flavour-packed drinking, though it's early days yet. While the donation to our festive celebrations was welcome current purchase priorities will have Hughesy anticipating the arrival of the Four Seasons Club Cabernet Franc from the same vintage in six months' time I could be inveigled into a bit more of this one if the right offer appeared.

Holm Oak 2005 Riesling (5* $n/a) Three years after we visited the vineyard and ordered a dozen of this Halliday 94 pointer, things have mellowed out very nicely, the citrus on the palate has taken on the kerosene character associated with aged Riesling and the result is simply divine. $25 for the current vintage.

Houghton 2007 C.W. Ferguson Cabernet Malbec (5* 19 points $41.25) Deep purple-red colour, Cabernet varietal notes in the nose modified by the Malbec element. Massive. magnificent, still very young and in ten years time may well be rated at 20. Memo to self: There are five bottles left, get them into the wine fridge.

Kilikanoon 2009 Second Fiddle Rose (4* $19) Off-dry fruity Grenache style that's pleasant enough summer drinking without doing anything to draw your attention. Bought after a $85/dozen offer from the winery, and one suspects that the lack of a distinctive make you sit up and take notice character may have something to do with that. That said, would probably reorder as an everyday drinking style if it reappeared at the same price.

Leeuwin Estate 2004 Art Series Riesling (4.5* $n/a) Another powerful argument for bottle-aged Riesling with developed flavours and the characteristic kerosene notes, which is, for the novice, nowhere near as off-putting as it might sound. Kerosene will have to do until I can find a better descriptor.

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© Ian Hughes 2012