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Leeuwin Estate 2005 Art Series Riesling (4.5* 19 points) Near-sparkling pale gold, aromatic with developed Riesling character in spades through the nose and across the palate, youthful acids have rounded out into complex elegance with a lengthy finish. Delicious, and a powerful argument for keeping a couple of bottles in the cellar (assuming you can keep your hands off them). 

Lenton Brae 2009 Cabernet Merlot (4.5* $25) Works very well as a softer, drink now style and that;s definitely the territory this one's aimed towards. Notes on the winery website confirm the intention, and with a fragrant nose, softly rounded palate with the tannins subtly folded into the mix and a lengthy finish. Possibly not one for the long term, but as a medium-bodied style to drink over the next year to eighteen months (which is about all you can expect in this environment unless I can manage a substantial increase in refrigerated cellar capacity) it's hard to see how you could go much better.

Lenton Brae 2010 No Way Rose (4.5* 16 points $18) Bone dry, summer in a glass style that was a steal when offered t $150/dozen. Needless to say will be looking for similar offers in the future.

Lenton Brae 2010 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (4.5* $22) Not quite half and half (52% Semillon, 48% Sauvignon Blanc), and while the Semillon just comes through on top the varieties blend close to seamlessly. Powerful from the aromatics on the nose to the lingering acid on the finish, and there's an abundance of fruit in between. While it may develop there's no way the other two in the order will be getting a chance. In fact, they'll be lucky to see March and April is almost certainly out of the question. Stunningly good, and within a whisker of a 5* rating

Lenton Brae 2009 Southside Chardonnay (4.5* $25) As opposed to the significantly more expensive Wilyabrup Estate Chardonnay this drink in the medium term style comes from early picked fruit, some malolactic fermentation to tone down the acid and with no obvious oak on the palate the result is an easy drinking style that has a creamy citrus textured tang that's refreshing with a lengthy finish. Ticks all the boxes as far as new style early drinking Chardonnay is concerned.

Olssens of Watervale 2005 Bass Hill Vineyard MMS (Mataro/Malbec/ Shiraz) (4.5* $35) Absolutely smooth, full-bodied, rounded wine that will go on for years with complex notes on the nose and across the palate, firm tannins and a lengthy finish. We need to be looking for the 2006.

Pfeiffer 2008 Chardonnay (4* $17) Pale straw in the glass, some varietal character on the nose and across the palate, and a touch of oak as well. Workman-like style that's pleasant enough drinking but wouldn't have prompted a reorder, and, in any case, the winery's sold out of this vintage. Maybe there are others out there who liked this more than I did.

Pfeiffer 2004 Riesling (4* $n/a) Arrived in the October 2009 C2 Club Dozen and stuck at the back of the wine fridge since, a check with the ubiquitous Halliday suggested that January 2011 was a bit past the drink-by date for a well-made but unremarkable Riesling, probably made from King Valley/Strathbogie Ranges fruit. Seven years in the bottle had certainly rounded out the  apple and tropical fruit notes he'd remarked on, and the aged Riesling characters weren't up there with some I've tried recently, but an interesting drink that suggests it's worthwhile sticking a few well-made Rieslings away even if they're not from a premium region. Provided you've got the cellar space, of course.

Rockford 2010 Alicante Bouchet (4.5* 17 points $18) As usual there's plenty to like about this regular item on our summer drinking schedule, which accounts for the apparent disparity between the points scores. Bright, clear, almost sparkling in the glass, tannin-free, well balanced with its own lunchtime charm. A dozen of these is an annual event.

Stella Bella 2007 Cabernet Merlot (5* $32) Hughesy's benchmark for the blend. Rich, lush, fragrant and aromatic, plenty of full-bodies fruit across the palate delivering the sort of line, length and balance we used to associate with the Australian bowling attack in the Warne/McGrath years. Would go on for years, but will probably not be given the chance. Another argument for a larger wine fridge.

Tahbilk 2009 Cabernet Franc (4* $14.45) Predictably, given the genetic relation to Cab Sauv there are the regulation aromatic Cab notes on the nose. Across the palate it isn't an overly elegant wine, but at this price point elegance usually isn't an option. Still, there's a hint of it lurking there. Aromatic and spicy with  varietal character it's got a certain raffish earthy charm. A pleasant little number I'll be happy to revisit.

 Tahbilk 2000 1927 Vines Marsanne (5* 20 points $45) Almost transparent pale straw colour, but there's nothing pale or insipid about the nose or the flavour of this one. Complex notes of honeysuckle and citrus up front and a long finish mean that in Marsanne terms this is probably about as good as it gets. Still another bottle to go, probably somewhere around 2015....

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© Ian Hughes 2012