My Various Vinous Varieties research suggested that Sangiovese’s one of those varieties where your mileage may well vary, and we’ve got a fairly definite variation here in the Little House of Concrete. I’ve liked most versions I’ve tried, whereas Madam remains firmly unconvinced.
Sangiovese is to Chianti as Cabernet is to Bordeaux and Pinot Noir is to Burgundy, but the Tahbilk version is a fair way from the old raffia-wrapped bottles that were favoured all those years ago when Italian tucker was the new kid on the block. It’s a fairly rich, concentrated style, very savoury with a herbal/spicy nose and pleasant tannins on the finish.
As indicated, I’ve enjoyed most examples of the variety that I’ve tried, and this one was no exception. In the interests of domestic harmony, however, I don’t think I’ll be picking up a dozen any time soon, though continued availability of the 2008 Reds pack over the next few months might see the odd bottle sneaking through the door.
Next up we hit the 2008 Grenache, another quite delicious drop, spicy, berry-flavoured and soft on the palate, a very good food wine that’d go well with pizza or Mexican and I’d be tempted to cart the other bottle with us next time we track down to Coyotes. Like the rest of the box a well made wine with savoury notes that offers something out of the regular range of tastes.
Which brings us to the 2008 Mourvedre, another varietal that you don’t see on its own too often. Usually, when you did see it in that form it was called Mataro, and it wasn’t too common even then. Nowadays you’re more likely to see it as the M in a GSM blend, the G being Grenache.
As far as Madam was concerned, this was the pick of the bunch, and I’d be inclined to concur if I had to pick out just one of the six (I liked them all and find it difficult to play favourites when things are close).
The nose gave an indication of what the variety brings to a blend, with hints of spice and earth and once it hits the taste buds you’ve got a full-flavoured, mouth-filling style that’s another good food style. Again, tasting the variety by itself (and remembering the previous night’s Grenache) you can see what the varietal brings to the blend, and why there’s plenty of interest in the GSM blends...
Finally, we got to the 2008 Tempranillo. Like the others it was another savoury style, ruby red in the glass, berry and floral characters on the nose and a spicy palate with pleasant astringency and a nice dash of tannins. Very drinkable indeed. We’d tried the Brown Brothers 2006 Tempranillo the night before, and Madam agreed that there wasn’t much between the two, an impressive wrap given the two-year age gap.
Looking back over the box at $135 for the pack, I thought it was exceptionally good value, particularly as an opportunity to try straight varietal versions of things that you’re more likely to sight hidden away in a blend elsewhere.
Madam didn’t like the Sangiovese, and is starting to think the blood of Jove isn’t her thing (I don’t think she’s the only one in that camp). The Mourvedre, on the other hand, she rated as very good. For my part I’m looking forward to cracking the remaining bottles, and once we’re finished I’ll be checking the website to see if the package is still on offer.
Oh, and I’ll definitely be lining up for the 2009 Reds pack...
