Originating in south-west France, but grown in almost every region where the climate is warm enough to ripen the grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon is a thick-skinned, low-yielding, late-ripening variety producing deep coloured, tannic wines with a strong varietal flavour used in the production of rosé, sparkling red medium to full-bodied styles with aging potential or blended with other varieties for added complexity. Tannins and affinity with oak allow the wines to improve in bottle, developing a range of vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, tobacco, coffee, musk and spicy notes. It is equally capable of producing affordable, everyday reds as it is of producing wines with finesse and class. For most of the 20th century, it was the world's most widely planted premium red grape until surpassed by Merlot in the 1990s.
First identified as Vidure due to hard woody stalks DNA fingerprinting revealed a 17th century chance cross-pollination between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc produced a single hybrid vine from which all Cabernet Sauvignon vines are descended, confirming the combination of names and the fact Cabernet Sauvignon displays both the black currant and pencil box aromas of Cabernet Franc and the grassiness of Sauvignon Blanc.
Cabernet Sauvignon produces bunches of small, thick-skinned, blue-black berries with a high ratio of solids to juice. The vines are hardy and resistant to most grape diseases (with powdery mildew the most noted exception) and frost. It is one of the last varieties to bud and ripen (a week or two after Merlot and Cabernet Franc) and the climate affects how early the grapes will be harvested.
When young, the wines tend towards flavours of black cherries and plum with aromas of black currants. The wines may also show hints of eucalyptus, mint and tobacco. As the wines age they develop aromas associated with cedar, cigar boxes and pencil shavings. New World examples tend to have more pronounced fruity notes while Old World wines are more austere with heightened earthy notes.
In cooler climates, vines produce foliage to capture sunlight for photosynthesis, rather than ripening grapes, so canopy management and pruning are important considerations for growers. Unripe Cabernet from regions that are too cool can be herbaceous with capsicum and grassy undertones, but as it ripens it tends towards blackcurrant and cassis. In regions where the grape is exposed to excess warmth and over-ripening, the wine develops flavours of cooked or stewed blackcurrants.
Harvest yields can also influence the quality and flavours of Cabernet Sauvignon. Excessive yields result in less concentrated wine with green or herbaceous flavours. To reduce yields, producers can plant the vines on less vigorous rootstock and practice green harvesting with aggressive pruning of grape clusters soon after veraison.
The most noted flavours tied to viticulture and climate are herbaceous or green bell pepper flavour from pyrazines in under-ripe grapes. These compounds are present in all Cabernet Sauvignon grapes but are sunlight gradually destroys them as the grapes ripen. In cooler climates it is difficult to get Cabernet Sauvignon to ripen fully and while the green bell pepper flavour is not considered a fault it may not be desirable either.
Mint flavours are associated with regions warm enough to have low pyrazine levels but are still relatively cool, such as Coonawarra. Soil could also be a contributor since the flavour appears in wines from the Pauillac but not from similar climate of Margaux. Eucalyptus flavours tend to appear in regions that are habitats for the eucalyptus tree, but there has been no evidence to prove a link between nearby eucalyptus trees and the presence of that flavour in the wine.
High proportions of phenols and tannins influence the structure and flavour of the wine— especially if the must undergoes lengthy maceration before fermentation with more tannins extracted from the skin. In Bordeaux, maceration traditionally took three weeks, producing tannic wines needing years of aging.
If winemakers choose to maximise colour and flavour, tannin levels can be softened by aging in oak, which exposes the wine to gradual oxidation, mellowing harsh grape tannins, introducing softer wood tannins and introducing vanilla and spice notes which complement natural grape flavours of black currant and tobacco. American oak, particularly from new barrels, imparts stronger flavours than French oak. Winemakers often use a variety of barrels from different locations and of different ages and blend the wine as if they are blending different grape varieties.
Winemakers can also use large barrels with a smaller wood-to-wine ratio, resulting in less pronounced oak flavours. Another method involves tea bagging with oak chips or adding oak planks to the wines while fermenting or aging in stainless steel tanks. While these methods are cheaper than using barrels, they create pronounced flavours, which tend not to mellow or integrate with the rest of the wine's components; nor do they provide the gradual oxidation of barrel aging.
Fining agents including gelatin and egg whites bond with some of the tannins which are removed from the wine during filtration. Micro-oxygenation mimics some of the effects of barrel aging, with exposure to oxygen aiding the polymerisation of tannins into larger molecules, which are perceived as softer on the palate.
After maceration, the must can be fermented at temperatures up to 30 °C, with deeper colours and flavour components extracted at higher temperatures while more fruit flavours are maintained at lower temperature.
During the Little Ice Age the climate in Bordeaux did not guarantee successful harvests every year and producers insured themselves by planting a variety of grapes. Over time they found the characteristics of each variety complemented others and blending enhanced the quality of wine. Cabernet Sauvignon added structure, acidity, tannin and aging potential, but can lack fleshiness on the palate which can be overcome by adding Merlot. Cabernet Franc can add to the bouquet and contribute a degree of fruitiness. In the lighter soils of Margaux, Cabernet-based wines can lack colour, which can be achieved by blending in Petit Verdot. Malbec can add additional fruit and floral aromas.
The variety was introduced to Piedmont in 1820, where the grape was used in blends with Nebbiolo and Barbera to add colour and fruit flavours. All three varieties are subjected to oak treatment to add a sweet spiciness to compensate for high tannins in Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo and high acidity in Barbera. According to DOC regulations Chianti could contain no more than 70% Sangiovese with at least 10% of a white grape. Many producers thought they would produce better wine using Cabernet Sauvignon rather than white grape varieties. Other Tuscan regions followed, blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese and making varietal versions of the grape.
Cabernet probably arrived in Australia in 1832 in the collection of James Busby, but it may have been brought with the First Fleet, and is mentioned by Sir William Macarthur in his description of varieties recommended for cultivation in Australia. It was introduced into South Australia by Joseph Gilbert in the 1840s for plantings at Pewsey Vale.
In the Coonawarra, Cabernet Sauvignon has produced vastly different results from vines planted in the region's free-draining terra rossa soil, producing deeply coloured, firmly structured wines with ageing potential, to the extent that the red soil is considered the boundary of the region. The long, cool growing season allowed for the accumulation of intense berry flavours, with an undercurrent of regional eucalypt character.
Margaret River, with a climate similar to Bordeaux, produces balanced wines with fresh berry fruit and fine tannins, the Barossa Valley produces big, full bodied wines while the cooler Clare Valley produces wines with more concentrated fruit.
The wine's high tannin content, oak influences and alcohol levels tend to overwhelm light and delicate dishes. Cabernet Sauvignon does not work well with spicy foods since capsaicin in chilli peppers are enhanced by alcohol, accentuating the bitterness. Milder spices, such as black pepper, pair better because the minimise the perception of tannins—so pepper steak is a better match than Sichuan style beef.
Fats and proteins also reduce the perception of tannins on the palate, so fatty red meats, such as lamb, work well, as do dishes with a cream sauce. In contrast, pastas and rice have little effect on tannins. The bitterness of the tannins can be counterbalanced with bitter foods, such as radicchio and endive, or cooking methods that involve charring. As the wine ages subtle, less bitter dishes will pair better. Oak influences of the wine can be matched with cooking methods such as grilling, smoking and plank roasting.
