I spent a deal of time and effort investigating the claim Swish Wines are the product of an established vineyard and a proven winemaking team and while locating the winery was comparatively easy, figuring out what it had been prior to this most recent incarnation wasn’t quite so straightforward. Along the way I picked up a definite feeling that the winery is targeting the younger end of the market, the FaceBook/Twitter crowd by delivering wine without the wank, which is fine in itself, but if you’re going to do that, you’re also in danger of alienating part of your market, particularly when your website is slinging off at old buffoons with braces and bulbous noses.

The latest edition of Mr Halliday's handy reference reveals that the vineyard was previously owned by the Gartelmann Estate, and that when the current owners bought the vineyard, they found a toy tin soldier among the vines.

But, ultimately, it’s about the wine in the bottle rather than packaging. Tin Soldier 2008 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (RRP: $25.00 TWS $13.99 Reorder: $11.89) is a bloody good wine. Very nice citrus, passionfruit and capsicum on the nose, and those elements come through in the mouth, nicely balanced with a lingering finish that’s reasonably delicious. Halliday, coincidentally, gives it a 91.

Oh, and the alleged RRP seems to be considerably over the odds when the winery website “normal price” is $14.99.

The rest of the box

Prince Hill 2008 Card Selection Sauvignon Blanc (RRP $14.99; TWS $9.99 Reorder $8,49) was a straight Sauvignon blanc without the characters you associate with the Kiwi version, but with a lingering finish, a bit of lemon on the nose and very easy to drink. I liked it, but don't know if I'll be reordering....

TWS 2007 Yarra Valley Chardonnay (RRP & TWS: $11.95; Reorder $10.15) didn’t, in my opinion, have a whole lot going for it, but that might be something to do with subtlety. Melon and stonefruit on the nose, some citrus and oak in the mouth. Not my style, sorry.

McWilliams Select Series 2008 Cabernet Merlot (RRP & TWS $11.99 Reorder: $10.19) was another nice drop. Blackcurrant and chocolaty oak on the nose, soft fruit flavours with soft tannins in the mouth and a lingering finish were enough to persuade me that while I mightn’t be reordering it’s one to watch out for when we’re away from home base and scouring the bottle shop looking for something to go with the evening meal.

I didn’t set out to save the best till last, but that’s the way it turned out. The Tyrone Estate 3 Generations 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP: $11.99 TWS $9.99 Reorder: $8.49) was soft, rounded and well-balanced, for my money an almost-perfect no frills and fancy stuff everyday drinking style wine with nice berries, blackcurrant and chocolate in the mouth, hint of spice on the nose. Given low-key packaging it’d be interesting to see how sales of the other wines fare in comparison with the more eye-catching presentation of the Tin Soldier and Coral Sea offerings. Not that we’re likely to see that data, of course.

But it would be interesting.