As a result, what are described in diplomatic circles as "wide-ranging discussions" meant that it was well after Hughesy's regular bed time when I toddled off cot-wards. The ladies, sensibly, had retired much earlier, and four-and-a-bit hours' sleep probably wouldn't have been an ideal preparation to an extensive tasting session on Saturday.

Fortunately I'd been careful to do some preliminary research before we left Southport, and out of the listings in the 2009 Halliday, I'd reduced the number of places I wanted to visit to three - Boireann, the only five-star establishment in that edition, Whiskey Gully, which seemed to have a bit of character, and Symphony Hill, which was experimenting with some unusual varietals.

Our visit to the Info Centre in Warwick had revealed Boireann, which operates on a stay open till everything's gone basis, wouldn't be open till Easter, so that left two.

The day's touring activities kicked off with a drive to the top of Mount Marlay, which affords a good view across the town and part of the surrounding countryside. From that vantage point it was obvious Stanthorpe was a more extensive town than a drive along the main street, or even the street map I'd consulted for directions to Granty's had suggested. With that vista examined and explained it was a case of back to the car and away to points southward.

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Established in 1997, Whiskey Gully combines vineyard, cellar door, restaurant, accommodation and is currently on the market for around $1.7M since the owners are thinking of following their daughter's footsteps and heading to France for a lengthy stay.

This was about the first thing we learned about the business from the daughter, who was looking after things while Mum was off on a jaunt somewhere. Apparently it had been a big night, though you wouldn't have known it from the hostess' demeanour if you hadn't been told.

The walls of the restaurant are home to an impressive display of guitars, including a dobro, a National steel-bodied, and an imitation of one of Clapton's axes that the owner had had to build himself since Eric's was a custom made job.

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