We headed back and parked beside the marina, where the photographic action was dealt with, and I figured I'd have a chance to check out the Darlington Vineyard. These operations are usually pretty well signposted, but once we were across the river again we sailed past the intersection. No warning sign, no left hand turn towards the heights that would deliver views across to Maria Island and, just possibly, a bottle of Riesling to go with the fish based dinner we 'd placed on the agenda.
The highway continued on through Triabunna, where we stopped for the views across the water to Maria Island we missed by missing the winery. From there it headed slightly inland until we hit the coast again at Mayfield Bay, the start of a section of road that wound along following the shoreline, up hill and down dale delivering views that were breathtaking on the way up and even more magnificent on the return journey, what with the view from the southbound lane and all.
We try to avoid retracing our steps if at all possible, but in this case it was definitely worth it. If your first exposure is heading north to south, the reverse might not be true.
In any case, once we'd reached the outskirts of Swansea Kate's Berry Farm, offering jams, chocolates and ice cream caught someone's eye, and a visit there was long odds on once we'd checked into Freycinet Waters, located right on the main drag with good views across towards the Peninsula.
Located on the north-west shore of Great Oyster Bay overlooking Freycinet National Park, Swansea was first settled in 1821 when George Meredith arrived from Wales and obtained a grant from Lieutenant Governor William Sorell to farm in the area. That, at least, lines up with the predominance of Welsh references among the area’s place names.
Great Oyster Bay, along with Maria Island, had been charted as far back as 1789 by John Henry Cox aboard his armed brig Mercury. Cox was an entrepreneurial type whose story deserves retelling, so I’ve had a go at it here. Cox had stopped en route from London at Amsterdam Island, half way between Africa and Australia where he’d collected a thousand seal skins and several barrels of oil.
Over the next twenty years there was a steady flow of British and French navigators passing and calling into the sheltered waters of Great Oyster Bay.